When Zelman Meats took over Rex & Mariano last month it seemed like all things meaty won over all things fishy. Pescatarians be darned, St Anne’s Court is now for the carnivores.
But can this new venture from the Goodman Restaurant Group live up to the standard of Burger & Lobster, Beast, and Goodman success? If it lies on the strength of its logo, which reminds me of a superhero emblem, then perhaps it’s on to good things.
The place is transformed into a proper steakhouse, with faux-leather upholstered booths and warm dim lighting. Memories of Rex & Mariano and Goodman restos are apparent on the cutlery and plates. And there are some R&M favourites on the starters selection.
The short and sweet menu is displayed on blackboards everywhere, and if that’s not enough your server will probably explain the items one by one (which is what happened when I visited). We skipped the starters and went straight to the meats.
I love me a good picanha because let’s be honest, a good booty will almost always get some good loving – and it’s cheap as chips (or in this case, chopped salad) at £6 per 100g! I would’ve preferred it a bit pinker, but as I sliced through my first hundred grams I knew it was one of the best rumps I’ve ever tapped in town. Soft, smoky and seasoned perfectly this was a great start.
And then I tried the beef short rib with spicy sauce. Goodness gracious guacamole, that rub definitely hit the spot. Albeit not as hot as I thought, it was a delicious balance of smoke, sweet and spice. Definitely something I would love to have on a Summer barbie.
The meat itself was tender and fall-off-the-bone. Although it was ever so slightly dry from the grilling, it still tasted fantastic. Wouldn’t be surprised if this becomes a crowd favourite.
My favourite, however, is the chateaubriand. Cooked and seasoned to absolute perfection, my knife sliced through the cut smoothly and it just melted in my mouth. The depth of its meaty, earthy taste is unbelievable and for a price as cheap as £9 per 100g I really couldn’t fault it.
Sides weren’t as exciting, but perhaps I ordered wrong. For wanting a little bit of greenery, I opted for the chopped salad (£6). Nothing to write home about, folks. Should’ve gone for the aubergine/courgette.
The triple-cooked chips (£4.50) were the same standard as the mothership (aka Goodman) and though they came with truffle and parmesan variants, the standalone chips were quite a standout, too.
I’d like to think Zelman Meats would stay longer than its former incarnation because like any superhero it saves the day, hits the spot, and offers great value. It was possibly one of the best cheap eats I’ve had this year and was totally worth the meat sweats.
2 St Anne’s Court, London W1F
Average spend pp: £35